It's 2009. My son has just returned from the Dollar Store.
"Hey, ma, look at this!" he says, holding up a small green box. "They're called 'Jujubes' - from your day. Whoa! I almost broke a tooth on one of those. They're like rocks!"
"You don't know how to eat them. The cool part was to soften them up enough to chomp then glue your teeth together," I said, wistfully. "Isn't it great?"
He gives me his "glue-factory" look, shrugs, dumps the box and heads for his "virtual" room.
Jujubes! Ah ... yes. I remember my "ju"-joy, circa 1950s. Loews in Queens. The box lasted through the whole double feature: "The House on Haunted Hill" and "The Blob"
My "Ju"-Joy leads to a flood of nostalgia, or in my case - Jewstalgia.
My "Ju"-Joy leads to a flood of nostalgia, or in my case - Jewstalgia. And I realize how long I've been Jewstalgic for all the places, all the times of my life that have just gone missing. And like any good Jewess most involve, what else? Food.
Join me?
1. The Candy Store: No. I'm not talking Scharffen Berger or Section 7A of Wal-Mart. The 1950s Candy Store had a name. "Switzers," "Blooms" "Fleigelmans." Small, messy, it was a micro universe that smelled of "sweet," sour balls, and sawdust. Part soda fountain, part newspaper and comic central, part candy land, it was a hang-out for the "over thirteens" ("tweenies," and "teens" had yet to be "invented"), and a reward for us kids. ("If you're good, we'll go to Switzers!)
Ah ... to once again swivel on the round, red chairs with the Band-Aid covering the rips, in front of the "fount'n." Ice cream soda glasses for an egg cream or foamy root beer float, were a foot high - with two straws for sharing. And the sweets! Rows of button candy stuck to paper I never quite liberated, Neccos, Blow Pops, Jujubes, Chunkies, wax lips. And Sen-Sen - for papa!
If I was really really "good," ma let me turn the wire newspaper display stands. As she picked up The Forvards, I'd grab the latest Archie, and Little Lulu. Best yet, if salty Mr. Switzer was in a good mood, he might just give me a salty pretzel from the long glass jar - without me plopping a penny on the counter!
2. A Shortie- Bonomo's Turkish Taffy: "B-O... N-O... M-O... Oh, Oh, Oh... it Bonomo's... Turkish Taaaaaaafy!" It wasn't taffy. But it was Turkish. Or Jewish Turkish! (Mr. Bonomo was Sephardic.) But ... the nougat vanilla, chocolate, strawberry, or banana bar you could whack into pieces or stretch out, eroded slower than the White Cliffs of Dover.
3. Seltzer and The Man: No, it's not a cancelled sitcom, but an essential to life as we knew it. Club soda?! Feh. Only a meshugener would compare champagne to "swamp" water! Seltzer, the real stuff, brought by the soda man, was a unique sensory experience -- from the pouring to the kishkas. But more. Those sharp bubblies alone cut through everything from shmaltz-induced acid reflux - to Zayde's prune juice stain on the carpet. (And made a handy-dandy fire extinguisher.) Every week, Tim, The Seltzer Man, would deliver cases of the ubiquitous elixir in slatted wooden cases containing clear or blue syphon bottles.
OK, true. Sometimes you got a dud (Maybe one out of five). You'd squeeze the metal "handl" as bubbe called it, and ... bupkes. Not even a shpritz! Poor Bubbe. The Empress of Leftovers would put a half-filled glass of seltzer in the Frigidaire. Till her dying day, she "vondered vere" the bubblies went.
4. The Egg Cream: For a few cents more, seltzer, or "two-cents plain" at the soda fountain, could be transformed into the most delightfully sweet confection known to the Jewish palate. Add a little milk, U-Bet chocolate syrup, and Boom! An Egg Cream. And no, it doesn't contain either an egg or cream. But who cared? Where it started? Who knows? But controversial it is. (Although we do know its roots are Jewish, New York City.)
Theory One: The famous Auster's candy store. Lower East Side, 1890s. The owner tinkered with chocolate and seltzer. Boris Thomashevsky, the Yiddish actor, returned from Paris extolling the virtues of a drink called "chocolat et creme." To Auster, "chocolat et creme" sounded like "chocolate egg cream." Thus, the eggless chocolate drink was named!
Theory Two: According to Professor Daniel Bell, his uncle, Hymie Fredkin invented the luscious concoction. At his candy store near Auster's (above), he mixed chocolate syrup, chocolate ice cream, and an egg, then added milk and reversed the spigot on the seltzer. He called his drink "Uncle Hymie's Egg Cream." During the Depression, as eggs and ice cream were expensive, he tinkered and made it with chocolate syrup and milk.
Whatever the real origin, egg cream became a Jewish institution.
5. The "Derma Road," The Catskills: Famous Route 23 took us to Yiddishe Wonderland: A resort in the Catskill Mountains. On the way, was Howard Johnson's (verrry Goyishe, but at least it wasn't called "HoJos") - or boring fast food chains. Besides, who cared? Grossinger's alone could feed every Jew in Brooklyn - with one lunch serving. These platinum "shtetls" were self-contained opulent universes, where a person could sleep, eat, shop, swim, eat, get your hair done, take lessons, eat, be entertained, enter contests, eat, play Simon Says, find a mate, eat -- and never leave the premises.
Every meal was a Bar Mitzvah-like buffet
"Eating" wasn't a biological necessity, it was an avocation! Every meal was a Bar Mitzvah-like buffet, with endless Borscht, lokshen soup, kneidlach, tzimmis, kreplach, brisket, kasha, chopped liver, herring, gefilte fish, chicken (any which a-way), challah, lox, bagels, whitefish, blintzes, knishes, matzoh balls, kugel, huluptzes, strudel, rugelach, taiglach, kichel, and of course, stuffed derma. As much as you wanted ... which made "waddling" to the pool to cool off from such culinary exertion, a mekhaye! (Even if you went in up to your ankles, for no more than 90 seconds.)
"Eating" was also a good look-see op for the shadchan. The better resorts provided the services of a "marriage broker," who, while mama and papa were "essing," was eyeing the marriageable "kinder" for possible matches across a crowded dining room. The primary requirement? Breathing - even from a tube. ("Bubbala, you're 23 already. No one's perfect!")
At night, the Jewish stars came out! In the club, a singer and comic on the rise ... Freddie Roman, Jerry Lewis, Buddy Hackett, Totie Fields ... would entertain, covering half the resorts in one night. The lesser-known would also "double" as Social Directors, leading Simon Says by day for a shot at the "big-time" at night. We'd "clack" our approval with wooden "lollipop" sticks. (Face it, after 50 pounds of brisket, who had the strength to clap?)
If you were lucky, you might even see Buddy Hackett having a bagel and lox - in the coffee shop! (We did!) Which of course, reminds me of the Appetizing Store (back when "appetizing" was also an adjective). Ma would regale the whole neighborhood with every moment and morsel of our trip on that whitefish line, and later at The Beauty Parlor, where -
"Ma?" My son has left his sanctum and re-joined me. "So ... you softened them first?" "What?" I ask. "These," he answers, picking up the green Jujube box thoughtfully. "Right. Want to try it?" "Maybe later. Would you like to watch a DVD? "Sure. You got 'House on Haunted Hill,' by any chance? I ask." "As a matter of fact I do!" "Great. Move over. And pass me the jujubes!?"
A little Jewstalgia, it seems goes a long way.
If you'd like to share, we'd love to hear YOUR Jewstalgia! Take a glass seltzer ... and post a bissel in the comments section!
(21) Janna, July 29, 2020 5:07 AM
Anyone remember Jerry's Knishes?
My favorite food memory from childhood was Jerry's Knishes on the boardwalk in Rockaway, NY! Anyone remember the place? They had so many varieties, but my favorite was the cherry cheese - unbelieeevable! A number of years back, I heard that one of the cooks from that place opened a knish store in Baldwin (Long Island), and I found the tiny shop. That first taste of cherry cheese knish reduced me to a puddle of tears as all the memories of beach days with my grandmother came flooding back! The shop only lasted maybe a few years, sadly.....Also, Bonomo's Turkish Taffy still exists!!! I got it at Wegman's - tastes just about the same - I heard they sold the name and recipe to someone else and they brought it back. Thanks for the sweet memories!
(20) Ann B., July 28, 2020 9:06 PM
Ah...The good old days.
What a wonderful stroll down memory lane. I remember all those candies plus.... Goobers, Sugar Daddies, Sugar Babies, Violet chewing gum, Good and Plenty, Red Hots, tiny pastel colored candies on long white paper. You had to bite the candy off and the paper came with it. Yuck. How about the little wax bottles with colored pure sugar liquid inside? Also, white cigarette candy with a little pink tip. And pink, yellow or green chewing gum cigars. Good stuff. I could write a book about the "mountains." All wonderful memories. Thank you. In this frightening, uncertain time, good memories help.
(19) H.E.Brown, July 27, 2020 4:27 PM
The nifty fiftys.
Those were the days my friend we thought they would never end. It was a good time to live. One of my favorites was Juje, Fruits when going to the movies and a box of Popcorn. Thanks for the reminder of those days. For around 40 to 50 cents was all the money a person needed. It was safe back then also, no one would bother you. Didn't have to worry about bad language in the movies either. I thank God that he allow us experience those days.
(18) Dr. Jordan Marks, January 29, 2009 7:57 PM
ORIGINAL, TRULY FUNNY
I found this to be an excellent example of humor writing. It is funny, poignant, personal, and written to engage the reader. I am currently teaching a course in humor writing, and came upon your site as part researching what's "out there." Kudos to the writer. I wish all of your articles were up to this standard. So far, I am also particularly impressed with Andy Cowan's work. Dr. Marks
(17) Lauryn, January 29, 2009 8:28 AM
Still get seltzer
We still get seltzer delivered. There are at least a few seltzer delivery men working in Queens/LI.
(16) feivel, January 27, 2009 6:24 PM
Milk chocolate blocks at Benny Chodosh's and a Mission Orange soda each for two cents on Avenue M off of Ocean. Ms W-Mc is the mistress of nostalgia
(15) Lillian Altman, January 27, 2009 5:16 PM
Charlotte Russe
No one outside of New York knows about the most delicious dessert: charlotte russe: you push the sponge cake up thru the paper roll, with whipped cream and cherry, and it was heaven!!!!!
(14) elaine, January 27, 2009 2:48 PM
Gribenitz
I enjoyed this article. At Magruder's I just bought some creamy diet chocolate soda that reminds me of an egg cream and i am cooking some greibenitz for dinner. My local butcher gives me the skins for free - otherwise he would have to throw them out.
(13) Barry Jacobs, January 27, 2009 11:46 AM
Nostalgia vs. aging
It's nice to reminisce. I recall practically everything listed in the 'nostalgia' joke. The only thing is that for me, it's more NEURALGIA, rather than nostalgia. Aah, youth!
(12) Dave Korn, January 27, 2009 9:43 AM
Social Director, no. Tummler, yes.
Regarding Marnie Winston-Macauley's "Jewstalia". Just one note: at the Borscht Belt Hotels, they were not Social Directors, they were Tummlers.
(11) Marta Sanders Cooper, January 27, 2009 8:09 AM
Memories of a time that is truely gone by!
How lucky to live in NYC, where we still have a couple of places that sell egg creams and Economy Candy on the lower East side that sells all of the sweets mentioned and then some! Even this area is changing rapidly and anything that remains is at risk of being pushed out with super rent increases! I remember the paper tubes of kool aid that you had to cut end off and a shower of sweet/sour powder would go down your throat. Ah, the memories!
(10) sybil, January 26, 2009 6:26 PM
memoirs
yes, I still drink seltzer, only my time in the candy store was in the 40's. Sadie forgot the "wax" bottles with the mysterious liquid inside...candy cigarettes, Tootsie Rolls that actually tasted like chocolate! Necco mints, candy hearts with the designer sayings..Dots, especially the licorice. Way to go! Sadie! How about Dixie Cups, with the photo of a "star", once you licked the ice cream, fudgcicles and ices covered ice cream pops, and Mello Rolls! would that we could go back to those days!!!
(9) Mallory Lewis, January 26, 2009 5:54 PM
Marnie I love u!
Not from my era but reminds me of the joys of sitting with my grandparents! Can smell the (overcooked) brisket and taste the Manichevitz. Sorry. We Jews make TERRIBLE wine! xo Mally
(8) Rabbi Yocheved Mintz, January 26, 2009 5:53 PM
Malted Memories
Your trip down memory lane prompted a craving for a vanilla malt from the local drug store. Nu? No more soda fountains, no ma-and-pa drug stores. Oy. Yipes! In this economy, even our local Baskin-Robbins has deserted us!
(7) Anonymous, January 26, 2009 4:31 PM
Toronto memories
I grew up in Toronto. I've never had an egg cream but I do remember ice cream that was sold at a corner store on Borden Street.It came wrapped in a toilet paper looking core that was placed on the cone and then pealed off. For me, other than the penny candy called black balls that lasted forever was an ice cream store called Findleys. Grape ice cream. It was purple. Amazing how special it all made me feel.
(6) melanie, January 26, 2009 12:02 PM
jew jewbes
and twizzlers were my faves--thanks for bring back sweet memories for savoring mel
(5) Howie, January 26, 2009 9:59 AM
East Elmhurst
Our candy store, on 21 Avenue and 78 Street in Queens, was Chesler's. Your candy store description was perfect! I loved Mr. Chesler's egg creams, always with a pretzel stick. Not much for Archie and Lulu, but would read the latest Superman (a nice Jewish boy who left home as an infant) installment while sitting on the bandaged stools, likely spinning and kicking someone periodically. Thanks for taking me back home.
(4) BEV. R., January 26, 2009 1:14 AM
Movies & penny candy
my three cousins & I and my little brother that i had to schlepp along went to the movies every saturday afternoon. we each got a nickel for candy. in the little store next to the movie house we spent a long time picking out what you got the most of for a penny, so for five cents it lasted for the whole movie & weekly serial. always sat way on the left cause it was never crowded there. it was a ball and the candy tasted better than ANYTHING today,no matter what we picked out. didn't know it then but it was the best of times!!! sometimes i went about a mile from home with a cousin of mine to get 1/2 pt of ice cream for a nickel. they just cut the pint in half, gave us a wooden spoon & it was heaven, just sitting on the steps and enjoying our treat. we did all this ,walking to our destinations. BEV.Rosengarten Rice
(3) Anonymous, January 25, 2009 9:59 PM
what memories!
what memories you brought back, I remember every one of those things. They really were the good old days. I feel sorry for the kids growing up today, for many reasons.
(2) feivel, January 25, 2009 7:37 PM
You want nostalgia!
Sun nite, crowd's gone home. I take dance instructor from the Raleigh to Young's Gap to see her girlfriend who introduces her to Buddy Hacket. I get dissed and object. Red Buttons, a"h breaks it up, she marries Buddy...who's still alive?
(1) chuck greene, January 25, 2009 4:33 PM
Sunday morning deli
Shopsy's Deli on Spadina...corn beef, bagels, lox, and cream cheese, rye bread, family